Sounds a bit too analog, honestly. I'm sure it's all done digitally, but the saw wave you have there sounds like something from an analog synth or a digital synth that was meant to mimic one. :)
For something to really be a chiptune, it's better to stick withvery simple digital waveforms, specifically square, triangle, and saw (maybe sine, if you're feeling fancy), or white noise.
Ya know, it's intresting. This isn't really a politically correct thing for someone involved in art to say, but I have to say I'd agree to some extent with what Gwes said about style -- if you don't have the skill to choose your 'style' it's not really your 'style' per se, it's just the limit of your artistic ability. If someone says "I think all art is good and everyone has their own style" then often times they're just making excuses for a lack of skill on someone's part. :)
That being said, though, realistically it's difficult sometimes to find someone to do art for your project, and you may want to produce a project that looks reasonably good without spending many hundreds or thousands of hours practicing art (I feel like I read somewhere that on average, to get truly good at something, you have to spend about 10,000 hours doing it). If you understand that what you're doing is recognizing your own limitations and working within them, it's not so much about being in denial as taking an engineer's approach. "Here are the resources I have at my disposal -- what can I do with them that will look good?" In that case, the highly stylized approach isn't about trying to convince yourself that you're a good artist; it's about understanding that you're a beginner and working within your limits. This will rarely (if ever) give you an end result that would be as good as if you're an experienced artist, but it can give you a much better result than if you don't take your limitations into account (and getting an experienced artist on your project isn't always in the cards for everyone).
The end result is what matters. Work with an undersatnding of your abilities and resources and produce the best results that you can. Skill will come with practice.
It's quite reasonable to assume that art will easily fit into neat categories. I made this assumption when I originally designed OGA, and what we ended up with were a bunch of pieces of art being shoehorned into various categories because most things didn't really fit. Textures are to some extent an exception to this, hence the texture browsing area being different.
So, in short, I understand where you're coming from. The answer is "already tried that; didn't work in practice."
Making great art takes a lot of practice, it's true. That said, I would have to disagree with the idea that practice is the *only* way to make your art better, particularly if you're a beginner. There are certain things that you can learn that will improve your art immediately, and there's nothing wrong with using those as long as you realize that they won't immediately lead to perfect art.
Here's an art tutorial for programmers that's pretty good:
As you can see, the ultimate result of the above tutorial isn't something amazing, but what it does give you is something a bit more usable than typical beginner art.
Here's some other stuff:
Color Theory
A lot of programmers who are just getting started with art tend to think of color in terms of red, green, and blue. This is a horrible way to think of colors if you want your art to look natural. If you haven't done this already, the absolute first thing you need to do is start picking your colors with HSV sliders as opposed to RGB ones. RGB sliders tend to lead people to make unsubtle color decisions, such as using pure green for grass, etc (this is one of my personal pet peeves; it's so easy to choose a natural color for grass, even for a beginner, but som many people just pick #00ff00 and end up with really unnatural-looking grass).
To get a bit further into the color thing, you need to know a couple of basic things about light and shadow. In a natural environment, light and shadow have their own colors. If you're standing outside in broad daylight and look at your shadow, your brain tells you that the color of your shadow is just a darker version of the surrounding color. This isn't actually the case. In reality, on a sunny day, there are two major sources of light: The sun, which is yellowish, and the sky, which is bluish. Your shadow is still receiving light, or else it would be pure black. That being said, the reason you have a shadow is because you're blocking the sun from hitting that area, so the main source of light to that area is going to be the sky. As such, shadows tend to be more blue than the surrounding area.
This is of course different on an overcast day, or when you're inside (because the ambient light in the room is the color of the walls an ceiling), but as a general rule for beginners, make your highlights a bit more yellow and your shadows a bit more blue, and you'll end up with art that looks significantly better than someone who doesn't already know this.
Use Photo References
Short of actually tracing a photo (or pasting content from the photo into your art), it is always okay to use photos as references, even in finished art. That being said, I would stop short of encouraging anyone to just paint or draw exactly what they see in a photo. Look at a number of different photos and combine elements from them into what you want. If you're drawing a person, it's fine to look around until you find a photo of a person with the correct pose and body type.
Note that since you can't get in legal trouble as long as you don't trace, it's also fine (and encouraged) to credit your reference photos.
If the photo is released under a Free license, it's also okay to trace the photo, but understand that in that case your work is a derivative work and you need to follow the terms of the license.
Everyone wants to be able to draw awesome stuff right from their imagination, but that is one thing the definitely takes tons and tons of practice (artists will often talk about having a 'mental library' that they can use). You need to remember, though, that what's important is the quality of your ultimate result, not how you arrived at it. DO NOT BE ASHAMED OF REFERENCING PHOTOGRAPHS. PROFESSIONAL ARTISTS DO IT.
The Pen Tool
Tablets are great, don't get me wrong. If you're going to be doing serious artwork over a long period of time, I would strongly advise you to get a tablet. However, it's also important to note that a tablet is only as good as your drawing arm (practice, practice, practice). If you're one of those people who has a bad arm but a good eye, then the Pen Tool is your friend. Advanced drawing programs (Photoshop, GIMP, Krita, etc) can generally stroke a pen line as if you're using a brush. Hence, if you have time, you can assemble something line by line making adjustments with the pen tool, and end up with a result that's nicer to look at than if you'd painted it directly. If you use a vector drawing program (like Inkscape), you can continually make adjustments to your strokes as opposed to being stuck with them once you're done. If you're not a fan of the vector style, you can always start in a vector program and then go to a raster program once you have everything drawn out. Some raster programs also let you work with multiple pen strokes, so you can accomplish this without using a vector program in some cases.
Layers
Use them. Seriously. Have a white background layer, then paint on the layer above it. Have shadow and highlight layers. Don't paint on your rough sketch layer, particularly if your sketch layer is a scan of an image. You don't want to have to clean up pencil lines in your final work.
Brushes
Use a mostly solid brush with a slightly soft edge, as opposed to using a brush that's completely soft. Brushes that are soft all the way to the middle look terrible when you use them to fill an area, because the area gets filled incompletely. Using a solid brush also helps you to think of your shading and highlights in terms of solid areas rather than lines. You'll break this rule later, but it's good to follow it as a beginner.
Art Programs
Use whatever program that gives you the results you like the best. Certain programs act in different ways. Try a bunch of them before you make up your mind.
Practice :)
In the long run, if you want to be really satisfied with your art, practice is the only way to go. That being said, practice has a lot more value if you understand what it is you're trying to get from it. As an artist, you need to understand the visual tricks that your brain plays on you, and be able to see the world as it really is (the light and shadow thing from above is an example of this). When you draw the world, think hard about what you're observing, and make special note of the things where there's a difference between what you think you see and what you actially see.
You have to inform the contest judges of your existing code a week in advance of the contest, at which point we'll post it somewhere that the other entrants can see it. This is in the Draft rules post, which I'll be putting into the main rules shortly:
I'd be interested in your script if it would work as a drop-in replacement for the current lightbox and still work just as well in other ways (or if perhaps it took the current lightbox script and added a magnifying glass to it or something).
I know about imagemagick (and also gd, which is PHP's image manipulation library). Creating a zoomed image isn't the meat of the problem; it's creating an interface around it. Does the user doing the uploading specify which images should be zoomed? Or if it's the user viewing the images, how can I add that in without creating extra clutter on the art form that would be completely unnecessary in any case other than pixel art? I'm not saying it's not doable, it's just not something I could drop in as a quick-fix without making a mess or breaking other stuff. :)
Sounds a bit too analog, honestly. I'm sure it's all done digitally, but the saw wave you have there sounds like something from an analog synth or a digital synth that was meant to mimic one. :)
For something to really be a chiptune, it's better to stick withvery simple digital waveforms, specifically square, triangle, and saw (maybe sine, if you're feeling fancy), or white noise.
Ya know, it's intresting. This isn't really a politically correct thing for someone involved in art to say, but I have to say I'd agree to some extent with what Gwes said about style -- if you don't have the skill to choose your 'style' it's not really your 'style' per se, it's just the limit of your artistic ability. If someone says "I think all art is good and everyone has their own style" then often times they're just making excuses for a lack of skill on someone's part. :)
That being said, though, realistically it's difficult sometimes to find someone to do art for your project, and you may want to produce a project that looks reasonably good without spending many hundreds or thousands of hours practicing art (I feel like I read somewhere that on average, to get truly good at something, you have to spend about 10,000 hours doing it). If you understand that what you're doing is recognizing your own limitations and working within them, it's not so much about being in denial as taking an engineer's approach. "Here are the resources I have at my disposal -- what can I do with them that will look good?" In that case, the highly stylized approach isn't about trying to convince yourself that you're a good artist; it's about understanding that you're a beginner and working within your limits. This will rarely (if ever) give you an end result that would be as good as if you're an experienced artist, but it can give you a much better result than if you don't take your limitations into account (and getting an experienced artist on your project isn't always in the cards for everyone).
The end result is what matters. Work with an undersatnding of your abilities and resources and produce the best results that you can. Skill will come with practice.
We had these in the past. They were a disaster.
It's quite reasonable to assume that art will easily fit into neat categories. I made this assumption when I originally designed OGA, and what we ended up with were a bunch of pieces of art being shoehorned into various categories because most things didn't really fit. Textures are to some extent an exception to this, hence the texture browsing area being different.
So, in short, I understand where you're coming from. The answer is "already tried that; didn't work in practice."
Beautiful work! Thanks! :)
Making great art takes a lot of practice, it's true. That said, I would have to disagree with the idea that practice is the *only* way to make your art better, particularly if you're a beginner. There are certain things that you can learn that will improve your art immediately, and there's nothing wrong with using those as long as you realize that they won't immediately lead to perfect art.
Here's an art tutorial for programmers that's pretty good:
http://www.gamedev.net/page/resources/_/creative/visual-arts/better-prog...
As you can see, the ultimate result of the above tutorial isn't something amazing, but what it does give you is something a bit more usable than typical beginner art.
Here's some other stuff:
Color Theory
A lot of programmers who are just getting started with art tend to think of color in terms of red, green, and blue. This is a horrible way to think of colors if you want your art to look natural. If you haven't done this already, the absolute first thing you need to do is start picking your colors with HSV sliders as opposed to RGB ones. RGB sliders tend to lead people to make unsubtle color decisions, such as using pure green for grass, etc (this is one of my personal pet peeves; it's so easy to choose a natural color for grass, even for a beginner, but som many people just pick #00ff00 and end up with really unnatural-looking grass).
To get a bit further into the color thing, you need to know a couple of basic things about light and shadow. In a natural environment, light and shadow have their own colors. If you're standing outside in broad daylight and look at your shadow, your brain tells you that the color of your shadow is just a darker version of the surrounding color. This isn't actually the case. In reality, on a sunny day, there are two major sources of light: The sun, which is yellowish, and the sky, which is bluish. Your shadow is still receiving light, or else it would be pure black. That being said, the reason you have a shadow is because you're blocking the sun from hitting that area, so the main source of light to that area is going to be the sky. As such, shadows tend to be more blue than the surrounding area.
This is of course different on an overcast day, or when you're inside (because the ambient light in the room is the color of the walls an ceiling), but as a general rule for beginners, make your highlights a bit more yellow and your shadows a bit more blue, and you'll end up with art that looks significantly better than someone who doesn't already know this.
Use Photo References
Short of actually tracing a photo (or pasting content from the photo into your art), it is always okay to use photos as references, even in finished art. That being said, I would stop short of encouraging anyone to just paint or draw exactly what they see in a photo. Look at a number of different photos and combine elements from them into what you want. If you're drawing a person, it's fine to look around until you find a photo of a person with the correct pose and body type.
Note that since you can't get in legal trouble as long as you don't trace, it's also fine (and encouraged) to credit your reference photos.
If the photo is released under a Free license, it's also okay to trace the photo, but understand that in that case your work is a derivative work and you need to follow the terms of the license.
Everyone wants to be able to draw awesome stuff right from their imagination, but that is one thing the definitely takes tons and tons of practice (artists will often talk about having a 'mental library' that they can use). You need to remember, though, that what's important is the quality of your ultimate result, not how you arrived at it. DO NOT BE ASHAMED OF REFERENCING PHOTOGRAPHS. PROFESSIONAL ARTISTS DO IT.
The Pen Tool
Tablets are great, don't get me wrong. If you're going to be doing serious artwork over a long period of time, I would strongly advise you to get a tablet. However, it's also important to note that a tablet is only as good as your drawing arm (practice, practice, practice). If you're one of those people who has a bad arm but a good eye, then the Pen Tool is your friend. Advanced drawing programs (Photoshop, GIMP, Krita, etc) can generally stroke a pen line as if you're using a brush. Hence, if you have time, you can assemble something line by line making adjustments with the pen tool, and end up with a result that's nicer to look at than if you'd painted it directly. If you use a vector drawing program (like Inkscape), you can continually make adjustments to your strokes as opposed to being stuck with them once you're done. If you're not a fan of the vector style, you can always start in a vector program and then go to a raster program once you have everything drawn out. Some raster programs also let you work with multiple pen strokes, so you can accomplish this without using a vector program in some cases.
Layers
Use them. Seriously. Have a white background layer, then paint on the layer above it. Have shadow and highlight layers. Don't paint on your rough sketch layer, particularly if your sketch layer is a scan of an image. You don't want to have to clean up pencil lines in your final work.
Brushes
Use a mostly solid brush with a slightly soft edge, as opposed to using a brush that's completely soft. Brushes that are soft all the way to the middle look terrible when you use them to fill an area, because the area gets filled incompletely. Using a solid brush also helps you to think of your shading and highlights in terms of solid areas rather than lines. You'll break this rule later, but it's good to follow it as a beginner.
Art Programs
Use whatever program that gives you the results you like the best. Certain programs act in different ways. Try a bunch of them before you make up your mind.
Practice :)
In the long run, if you want to be really satisfied with your art, practice is the only way to go. That being said, practice has a lot more value if you understand what it is you're trying to get from it. As an artist, you need to understand the visual tricks that your brain plays on you, and be able to see the world as it really is (the light and shadow thing from above is an example of this). When you draw the world, think hard about what you're observing, and make special note of the things where there's a difference between what you think you see and what you actially see.
Should be fixed now. My bad. :)
You have to inform the contest judges of your existing code a week in advance of the contest, at which point we'll post it somewhere that the other entrants can see it. This is in the Draft rules post, which I'll be putting into the main rules shortly:
http://opengameart.org/forumtopic/draft-rules-clarifications-and-updates
@cemkalyoncu
I'm leaning away from doing any sort of priavte stuff on OGA, although if a larget portion of the community wants it, I could probably be persuaded.
@q
That might be doable. I'll see if I can make that work this weekend.
@cemkalyoncu
I'd be interested in your script if it would work as a drop-in replacement for the current lightbox and still work just as well in other ways (or if perhaps it took the current lightbox script and added a magnifying glass to it or something).
I know about imagemagick (and also gd, which is PHP's image manipulation library). Creating a zoomed image isn't the meat of the problem; it's creating an interface around it. Does the user doing the uploading specify which images should be zoomed? Or if it's the user viewing the images, how can I add that in without creating extra clutter on the art form that would be completely unnecessary in any case other than pixel art? I'm not saying it's not doable, it's just not something I could drop in as a quick-fix without making a mess or breaking other stuff. :)
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