Light source should be the same no matter what direction he's facing. On some views the spots are shaded like bumps instead of just a color change, it should be one or the other. Other than that it looks good.
Nope, I mean put them side by side until the pixel width reaches 16, then add dirt until the height is right. Then add variation because while the scale works, the repetition is a little too much for a bigger tile.
Looks good, it's obvious what it is and still manages to have style. If you wanted to, you could tile those together into a 16x16 tile, add a little variation, and with a little work it could be used to expand your first tile set.
I just added the middle color where I thought it would look good. Unfortunately it's not really a technique, just practice. When anti-aliasing you can have the darker and lighter shades touch, but it won't be as smooth looking as having the inbetween color as a buffer. You can use that to your advantage to make something look sharper or harder. It's the most useful when doing something metalic. With the grass I used the abrupt change to imply sharp tips of the grass blades. In this case the contrast wouldn't work without using the inbetween color to blend the other edges.
These are fun! Not bad at all for your first work, definately more usable than my first stuff. I'm a harsh critiquer so please don't feel like your art isn't any good. I wouldn't say anything if I didn't like it.
First, take out that green line on the dirt section. It looks a bit like an outline you forgot to color brown. Second, reduce your colors. You've got a number of colors that aren't really making a difference unless you zoom in and one color that is only there for one pixel. You have a lot of colors to work from, but keeping the color counts low can make your art stronger. It can help make the artwork look cleaner and more unified, and keeping color counts in mind can prevent you from getting into lazy and bad habits down the line. If you can't see the difference between two colors while zoomed out, they should probably be the same color. On the other hand, the darker shadow color is very abrubt looking next to the base green. You may want to add your lighter shadow color in a few places as a buffer.
Since you're doing platformer tiles I would suggest a highlight right under the dark top line. This is a visual cue that tells the player they can stand there and helps to keep it visually separated from the background.
The grass could benefit a lot from hue shifting. Instead of turning saturation down or darking the color for shadows, use the hsb slider to make the color more shadowy. So, in the case of grass on a sunny day, make the highlights more yellow, the shadows more blue.
I've made an edit of all the things I've pointed out. I hope it's useful. I'd like to see more of this, you've got something fun and it could be a really cute tile set.
I'm not an official voice on this, but maybe I can help answer your questions.
The way that the code phase rule is written is that the code written before the beginning of the project must be made available and can be used by anyone else entering. I would guess that this means any art worked on before the beginning of the contest can be used as long as it's made available to everyone else, but you won't get any credit for that work during judging.
As for music, I don't know if that will be part of the contest. There's not going to be any sounds in the style guide, so I doubt it. I think a lot of the people making games would appreciate any music made available though.
Lookin' good!
Light source should be the same no matter what direction he's facing. On some views the spots are shaded like bumps instead of just a color change, it should be one or the other. Other than that it looks good.
Ooh, I second this request. That would be awesome.
Nope, I mean put them side by side until the pixel width reaches 16, then add dirt until the height is right. Then add variation because while the scale works, the repetition is a little too much for a bigger tile.
Looks good, it's obvious what it is and still manages to have style. If you wanted to, you could tile those together into a 16x16 tile, add a little variation, and with a little work it could be used to expand your first tile set.
I just added the middle color where I thought it would look good. Unfortunately it's not really a technique, just practice. When anti-aliasing you can have the darker and lighter shades touch, but it won't be as smooth looking as having the inbetween color as a buffer. You can use that to your advantage to make something look sharper or harder. It's the most useful when doing something metalic. With the grass I used the abrupt change to imply sharp tips of the grass blades. In this case the contrast wouldn't work without using the inbetween color to blend the other edges.
These are fun! Not bad at all for your first work, definately more usable than my first stuff. I'm a harsh critiquer so please don't feel like your art isn't any good. I wouldn't say anything if I didn't like it.
First, take out that green line on the dirt section. It looks a bit like an outline you forgot to color brown. Second, reduce your colors. You've got a number of colors that aren't really making a difference unless you zoom in and one color that is only there for one pixel. You have a lot of colors to work from, but keeping the color counts low can make your art stronger. It can help make the artwork look cleaner and more unified, and keeping color counts in mind can prevent you from getting into lazy and bad habits down the line. If you can't see the difference between two colors while zoomed out, they should probably be the same color. On the other hand, the darker shadow color is very abrubt looking next to the base green. You may want to add your lighter shadow color in a few places as a buffer.
Since you're doing platformer tiles I would suggest a highlight right under the dark top line. This is a visual cue that tells the player they can stand there and helps to keep it visually separated from the background.
The grass could benefit a lot from hue shifting. Instead of turning saturation down or darking the color for shadows, use the hsb slider to make the color more shadowy. So, in the case of grass on a sunny day, make the highlights more yellow, the shadows more blue.
I've made an edit of all the things I've pointed out. I hope it's useful. I'd like to see more of this, you've got something fun and it could be a really cute tile set.
I'm not an official voice on this, but maybe I can help answer your questions.
The way that the code phase rule is written is that the code written before the beginning of the project must be made available and can be used by anyone else entering. I would guess that this means any art worked on before the beginning of the contest can be used as long as it's made available to everyone else, but you won't get any credit for that work during judging.
As for music, I don't know if that will be part of the contest. There's not going to be any sounds in the style guide, so I doubt it. I think a lot of the people making games would appreciate any music made available though.
I'm not very good at grammar but I have a few things to point out. I'll bold the changes.
Code rule #1 might be better as:
Code entrants will be required to provide any source code they are going to use that was existant before the code contest started.
Code rule #2
The LPC staff will release a list of "obvious" FOSS libraries (such as SDL, SFML, pygame, etc) that are well known.
Is it just me, or are code rules 1 and 3 about the same thing? I would combine them and move it below rule #2.
Judges rule #5 says: You will also not be penalized for any additional effort required to get your code working on those drivers.
I'm confused. Who's effort are we talking about here? Do you get extra credit if you make it work for those proprietary drivers as well?
Yes, very interested!
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